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Home / Food & Drink / British
Nutters Restaurant
Susan Hall, joins the Confidential team, and journeys to Rochdale to sample a bit of Pennine Gothic at Nutters
Date Published: 26/03/2008
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Nutters is big. Actually, Nutters is the Addams Family's English timeshare, all pointy-arched windows and superfluous turrets, brooding down upon the conurbation below with a wholly Lancastrian arrogance. "Someday, son, all this will be yours."
It must be fabulous for functions. Next time I'm planning a murder mystery dinner for a bunch of gourmets I know exactly who I'm going to call. Six acres of grounds on the edge of the moors above Rochdale and a wine list to die for. Unfortunately, the factors which make it great for functions probably tell against it for more intimate dining. On arrival we were shown into an area which had the feel of a hotel bar in an up-market chain, perhaps a legacy from the 70s, when Whitbread owned the building. Back then the brewery extended the place and you can still see the joins. High-Victorian Gothic meets Life on Mars. ![]() The menus arrived accompanied by a plate of delicate chicken-and-mushroom wontons which we inhaled almost before the dish touched the table. Cracking start, Gromit! Nutters' wine-list is about as long as Wuthering Heights and rather stronger on plot and characterisation. However, there were only two of us and Russ was driving. Time to look at half bottles. Among the excellent selection was one of my all-time favourites: Chateau Musar 1997, from the Lebanon. Wine sorted, now to choose the food. Once we’d been taken through to our table the impersonal feel dissipated. The dining room has several levels, with plenty of quiet corners. Also, its high ceilings turn into a welcome heat-and-noise sink as the restaurant fills up, even if it was pretty chilly when we first arrived. The Bride of Dracula theme set by the décor was carried through into the hot rolls: we were offered an aromatic choice of rosemary or black-pudding. Or at least, I gather there was a choice. Russ whipped the black-pudding ones before I could blink. The rosemary ones were good, though. Russ started with vine tomato and sweet potato soup with garden herb pesto (£4.80): very pretty and with a good, ripe tomato flavour. I opted for crispy Goosnargh duck confit with celeriac remoulade and tangy sauce vierge (£7.80). Don't ask me about the remoulade. Given the contrast between immaculately crisped fat and succulent duck flesh practically anything else on the plate seemed an irrelevance. I'd have settled for a bread-roll to sop up the juices. Especially a particularly fine black-pudding bread-roll, come to think of it. For starters, the portions were generous. Andrew Nutter's approach seems to be inspired by his architecture: solid, quirky and aimed at guests who may have battled horizontal hail to be here tonight. |
Our main courses had excellent ingredients and were lovingly treated, but didn't quite gel as a whole. My flash-seared fillet of salmon served with sautéed new season potatoes, diver caught scallops and a lemon and dill hollandaise (£17.95) was a classic case of a support act overshadowing the main billing. The accompanying scallops were so delicate and sweet as to make the salmon almost redundant. ![]() Russ chose flash seared fillet of Tabley Brook beef with caramelised baby onions, potato bon-bon and green peppercorn sauce (£19.25). Either the peppercorn sauce was subtle in the extreme or it had been left out, leaving the dish bland, though he reported that the beef was tender, well flavoured and done exactly as he’d asked for. The potato bon-bon was a bit baffling, though: a squash-ball sized croquette with a mystery cheese filling. We finished with a selection of Lancashire cheeses (£6.95) and trio of chocolate (£7). Each was, in its own way, the highlight of the meal. Russ went for the chocolate trio, though since he has an allergic reaction to the word blancmange, he nearly missed it. Chocolate blancmange in Nutters-speak is an intensely creamy cocoa-y concoction served in a miniature kilner jar. Accompanied by two stunning tortes. ![]() So, overall: a very good but not outstanding experience, enlivened by a few lightning flashes of brilliance. At £90.55 for two exclusive of service and with only a toe dipped into its wine lake, Nutters is on the pricey side. However, it's definitely one we'll be thinking of for a suitable future occasion. Hallowe'en, Walpurgisnacht, Lammastide...
Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20: Gordo gets carried away
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Emma says..“ Does anyone remember The Manor on this site? They used to make faces out of sweets on your ice cream. Brilliant!”
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Shorty says..“ Emma- The Manor is my brightest childhood memory- we LOVED it!!!I've not been to Nutters yet- but only ever heard good things.”
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anon2 says..“ no need to be nasty anonymous.... you are demonstrating a clear lack of class with that comment. ”
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anon2 says..“ ... and you might want to learn how to spell, use capital letters and apostrophes correctly... and you had the cheek to comment about brains, please. ”
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George says..“ Nutters is excellent. Well done to the family”
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Anonymous says..“ yeah didnt really rate nutters we went and had the taster menu also went to a wedding reception there which i imageine cost a bit but the food and service was a shambles”
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Jo says..“ Excellent restaurant lovely service I wish we had more places like this - ok the building's too big”
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Deborah says..“ the food and the place staff ect was excellant people who slag this place off are mental and classless”
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hey says..“ I think i might just have to try it for myself!”
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Anonymous says..“ Calm down Debs it only an opinion.”
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Paul says..“ Debbie F sorry to butt in but only one n in anonymous.”
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Jack Foley says..“ No, Paul, there are 2 n's in anonymous. You meant to tell Debbie that there aren't 3.”
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Jonathan Schofield - editor says..“ Mr/Ms Anonymous removed your comment because it was simply pathetic and contravened the excessively rude rule below. ”
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Paul says..“ So your the one thats munching his todge”
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Anonymous says..“ He paid exactly one million pounds for the new place not bad I suppose with all that land”
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