Confidential crawls: south central pubs

Over the coming weeks we’re going to be producing a series of pub crawls and bar crawls across the city centre and out into the suburbs. Next week we’ll be looking at a city centre bar crawl, this week it’s the turn of the traditional pub. In subsequent weeks on an occasional basis we’ll excursion out to Chorlton, Didsbury, Saddleworth, Hale, Ramsbottom and other places. 

The South Central Manchester pub tour

This tour crosses some grand urban landscapes and includes two very modern pubs as well as three of Manchester’s most beloved specimens with the Briton’s Protection, the Peveril of the Peak and the Circus.

Begin at the well-appointed Dukes 92 (19-20 Castle Street, Castlefield 0161 839 8646 www.dukes92.com) in Castlefield.

Dukes is now as much part of the city drinking scene as the White Lion up the road. The name arises from the building's former use as stables on the Duke of Bridgewater canal and its location adjacent to the 92 lock of the Rochdale Canal. The pub is airy, bright and very tasteful. The oldest section still has comfy, classic furniture and a useful space upstairs. Outside is the best sun-trap drinking area in the city, immensely popular too whenever the sun shines. Located on a quiet cobbled road, next to a Rochdale Canal lock it’s sort of perfect. Sometimes there’s a barbecue outside. Food is a feature either as bar food, sit down fare in the Grill or full restaurant service in Albert Shed. There are cask ales, and good wines available. Castlefield Estates who own the premises have to congratulated on the way they look after their external areas with plants and so forth.

Leave Dukes by the bigger of the two outdoor drinking areas and turn right over the Rochdale Canal bridge up Duke Street. Turn right up the hill under the viaducts and past reconstructed Roman bits and bobs to Liverpool Road.

Immediately on the right is the late eighteenth century building which houses the Oxnoble (71 Liverpool Road, 0161 839 7740 www.theox.co.uk).  This good-looking building houses a pub with a good food reputation and an easy-going comfortable atmosphere. The pub was named, uniquely, for a low-grade potato that came up the canals from west Lancashire and was sold in the market (now part of the Museum of Science and Industry opposite) opposite. Good ales and wines too. Food is the emphasis here.

After the Oxnoble, turn right up Liverpool Road to the White Lion (43 Liverpool Road 0161 832 7373) which also dates back to the late eighteenth century, maybe as early as 1778.

There is a good range of ales available here and another good outdoor drinking area. If you’re with kids then they can go and play in the gardens and on the reconstructed foundations of the Roman fort outside. They’ll love running in and out of the fort ditches. By coincidence part of the remains outside include a mansion, a Roman pub from 1800 years ago. The pub does straightforward and cheap food.

Continue up Liverpool Road to the junction with Deansgate and take a dog-leg across the latter to Great Bridgewater Street under the 169 metre shadow of Beetham Tower.

After trawling under the bridges you’ll see over the lights the Britons Protection (50 Great Bridgewater Street, 0161 236 5895) on the other side of Lower Mosley Street – click here for a longer review of this Manchester classic. This is a multi-roomed gem full of elegant wood, tile and plaster detailing 200 years of pub history – it dates from June 1811. The straight-from-the-street bar area is particularly handsome - note the ceiling. But also try the cosy snug behind and, if sunny and warm, venture into one of the most unsophisticated but oasis-like pub gardens in the city. Aside from the pints Jennings, Robinsons, a couple of guests, you should take a sip or two from the over 230 whiskies (mostly malt) and bourbons. The first floor function room is a rare survivor but lacks the period detailing of the other areas – the room plays host to a variety of gigs, clubs and associations. Lunchtime food is good value. The name comes from the pub being a recruiting office in the past.

Turn right out of the Briton’s to Peveril of the Peak (127 Great Bridgewater Street 0161 236 6364) another gem, this time a festival of ceramics. This late Georgian end terrace has lost its fellow houses but gained (in the 1890s) an emerald external tiling scheme with Art Nouveau lettering. Internally the design is period but maverick, the weirdness climaxing in the triangular, squashed bar area with the legendary period table football – apparently the oldest pub table in continuous use in the UK, dating from 1955. Check out the beautiful Art Nouveau bar as well. Ales and pies, plus a small selection of wines feature here. There’s pool, darts and occasional music nights as well. The pub name comes from the original owner’s stagecoach which made him enough money so he could open the pub in the 1820s.

Across the road from the Pev is Rain (80 Great Bridgewater Street 0161 235 6500 www.rain-bar.co.uk), a modern pub in a conversion from an umbrella factory – hence the name. It’s the work of local brewer JW Lees. This is a popular place especially at weekends and has an especially good terrace down to the Rochdale Canal, it vies with Dukes 92 in some ways – see above. You can walk directly between the two down the canal as well. There’s typical food available, uninspiring but filling, plus JW Lees’ excellent ales including the lush Moonraker at 7%. Function rooms are available upstairs.

Follow the Great Bridgewater Street to its junction with Oxford Turn left on Oxford Street and then right on Portland Street. Cross over Princess Street past the dowdy and hard drinking Joseph Holt’s pub the Old Monkey.

A few doors down you’ll find the Circus Tavern (86 Portland Street 0161 236 5818) dating from before 1800. This provides proper minimalism… in size rather than aesthetic. How this little beauty survived is a wonder, perhaps it’s down to having very few landlords in its 200 year history. The most peculiar feature is a bar so small (perhaps the smallest in the UK) that it fits the bar person and no-one else. There’s an interesting pub history panel near the entrance and a playing-it-safe back room dedicated to United and City. Crisps and snacks are left on the few tables for guests to snack on, and bar staff come to the table to take orders. If you love pubs you have to visit this place, it’s a charmer, although it does get packed. The name comes from an equestrian circus that was founded nearby by Mr Handy. In 1797 his circus went on tour to Liverpool and then Dublin. The boat sank and performers and horses died. The pub kept the name.

Turn left out of the Circus and two doors down is the Grey Horse (80 Portland St, 0161 236 1874) run by local brewer Hydes. Another rare survival from the eighteenth century with weavers windows on the top floor (they gave extra light for intricate textile work), this also got its name from the horse circus of Mr Handy. Worth a stop even if it’s not quite so cute as the Circus. 

Turn left out of the Grey Horse and then left down Nicholas Street past the Chinese Arch. Continue straight over the tramlines onto Booth Street and then first left into Cooper Street. Look to the right and you’ll see the handsome pair of the City Arms (48 Kennedy Street, 0161 236 4610) and the Vine (46 Kennedy Street, 0161 237 9740).

The City Arms is the one to aim for here. It’s a busy little conversation breeder with one of the best ranges of beer in the Half Square Mile - as Manchester's business district is called in this area. Predictably popular with office workers and with Town Hall staff – the Council Leader is often in here - the City Arms, cuddles and coddles every type of citizen. Cask ales include Tetley bitter and mild, plus several guests. There’s lunchtime food available, a bizarre outdoor smoking ‘well’ close to the ladies’ loos, an even more bizarre selection of books, some remaining period details and darts. For full review click here.

If you do all these pubs on one crawl and can prove it, get in touch and we might give you a Heroes' card.

You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter here @JonathSchofield