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Confidential's food reviews: the shocking truth exposed
Impartiality v bought advertorial? There can only be one winner
Date Published: 03/11/2009
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It happens once a week. Usually it comes from someone in PR. Or other media people. Or restaurants we’ve given bad reviews. It goes like this: “Everyone knows that Manchester Confidential’s restaurant reviews can be bought.” That’s simply not true. So let’s re-iterate, when it comes to scored, rated and marked reviews we’ll say it as we see it. And we’ll let you comment on the way you see things at that restaurant as well. In terms of impartiality this puts us head and shoulders above Cheshire Life, Sugarvine, Onionring, Restaurants of Manchester and so forth. We have critical mass you might say. Any food or drink review on these pages which is followed by a rating out of 20 is completely impartial. We pay for it and we judge it, without any restaurant owners leaning over our shoulders with a red marker pen saying, “You can’t put that”. All these rated reviews are the opinion of the writer based on the experience during the review visit. They are not the opinions of the marketing team of the restaurant, nor for that matter of the publisher who has mates working there, nor of the Confidential sales force who are desperate to close a sale. That writer will be part of a Confidential team of scribblers, which we reckon, are without parallel in terms of experience on any publication in the north of England. (Ok, that last bit was an advertisement. For us.) But with Gordo, Schofield, Ruth Allan, Emma Unsworth, Philip Hamer, Jennifer Choi and occasionally Thea Euryphaessa, we think the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. And look out for more experienced additions to the food and drink team soon. And now we have proof of our impartiality. Sort of. A Manchester photographer was backstage in a kitchen recently when he spotted this picture on the wall here. The message is plain. Kitchen and waiting staff are being told to be mindful of three Confidential writers, Gordo, Schofield and Ruth Allan - as well as other Manchester critics. To digress for a second, the picture produces a curious mosaic of facial expressions. Gordo looks as though he’s eaten some particularly good foie gras, Neil Sowerby looks like he’s had some foul wine, Ruth Allan appears to be achieving some form of metaphysical ecstasy, Emma Jean Sturgess looks as smug as Gordo, and Ray King looks like he’s modelling hair for a mature gentleman’s hair salon. Schofield looks rabid as though he’s saying, “Don’t you ever, ever, ever, put mayonnaise on my chips again.” |
Now the restaurant in question wouldn’t be putting that up there unless they had something to worry about, would they? Perhaps the BBC is the problem here. At Confidential we love Auntie and would never want her to change. But in Britain the BBC’s Olympian detachment, supported by a tax, is the benchmark for the perception of the media in the public view. But the truth is that the BBC can afford to be impartial because their staff will be paid anyway. Because of this it would appear that many Brits think media ‘tainted’ by advertising must be always up for sale and can be always bought. That’s not the case, of course. By being brave the commercial media doesn’t have to suck up to advertisers, it can make itself so indispensible that advertisers want to be part of the media brand instead. In fact we think that being impartial over food reviews, entertainment and cultural comment, over news and politics has, along with our sparkling offers and competitions, resulted in the large readership we have today. Of course if restaurants decide to give complimentary meals for our guests or to writers then that’s fine. But it will be made clear to them that a review will never result from this. At the same time we won’t go out of our way to be nasty to advertisers. That would be stupid. But we won’t give them a good review if they don’t deserve it. Places have to earn positive comment, they can’t buy it. We will write nice things about the promotional meals we offer though, such as the meal featured at the River Restaurant at the Lowry on the site today (click here). This is because we’ve chosen the River Restaurant as one of the venues with which we want to do one of our Strictly Confidential deals. And we’ve chosen it because it’s good. We’ve also worked with the chef, Oliver Thomas, in choosing the menu and we’ve put in the leg work (poor us), by tasting it, sampling it and making suggestions. In this way we hope to give readers the best possible meal from a talented cook at the right price. So let’s re-iterate, when it comes to scored, rated and marked reviews we’ll say it as we see it. And we’ll let you comment on the way you see things at that restaurant as well. In terms of impartiality this puts us head and shoulders above Cheshire Life, Sugarvine, Onionring, Restaurants of Manchester and so forth.We have critical mass you might say. There’s a commonplace phrase which goes, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all.” That, dear readers, is not our way. |
Editorial says..“ Dear anon, sorry we deleted your comments by accident as we were independently and impartially correcting our spelling mistakes.”
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Knowledgeable says..“ Actually, shit food will always be shit food, whether the kitchen recognise you or not.”
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scoteee says..“ @ Knowledgeable,my point is that the MEN take money and give great reviews when in-fact the proprietors establishment is serving shit food. ”
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Anonymous says..“ Scoteee, the restaurant mentioned in the article is obviously sharp enough as they have a rogues gallery, read the article.”
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Descartes says..“ Off topic I know, but you're quite right; mayonnaise absolutely has no place on chips.”
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scoteee says..“ anonymous you're right, Cas I apologise. I am in fact a twat!”
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emma grace says..“ To be fair to mancon AD, you know if it's a review or not if they score it at the end. They do make it pretty clear when things are reviews, and when things are just articles...”
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GKW says..“ @knowledgeable please read the latest 2 reviews in the MEN website re Livebait and the Park inn, it might change your view of things”
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Anon says..“ I want to know which restaurant put your photo's up.... spill the beans! ”
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Mark Garner, the Publisher says..“ Anon, the bloody photographer won't tell us who it was!”
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Avo says..“ Right then. In order to narrow it down, you need to think of the kitchens in Manchester that have white tiled walls, stainless steel fittings and light switches. Hmmmm”
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scoteee says..“ And a bar Avo...”
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Editorial says..“ Review Reader thanks for the comments but the review date is under the rant box, under the icons at the foot of the page. Probably needs to be higher up thanks.”
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Gordo says..“ JS, it does appear that we need to move this to the top of the page; this is the third comment on this during the past few weeks. Thanks for the comments RR”
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Editorial says..“ Ad no way would we accept payment for a review that would muddy the waters. We take money for ads not reviews. For them we sneak in when we want.”
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AD says..“ Many paper based publications put the words "Advertising Feature" on anything thats paid for, if its written in a similar style to a written article, have you considered doing the same?”
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Jackson Brown says..“ Outraged, I don't understand you. If you don't trsut the reviews, why are you using this site? ”
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Terence Hungryun says..“ I'd like to propose more reviews away from the centre, especially places we can drive to in say an hour and a half. Love the reviews by the way.”
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Cas says..“ Terry, if I can call you that, you're spot on.”
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Anonymous says..“ mmmmm, I do so love websites that open 8 popups when I visit them, whoever designed www.beerintheevening.com is a genius.”
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Anonymous says..“ Maybe they just didn't like you?”
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Big Hairy Bloke says..“ Never had poor service in any of those three restaurants you mention M30, mind you I don't have a huge chip on my shoulder when I walk in either.”
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Anonymous says..“ M30, are you that feller I have heard about that walks in with bad BO and a great big zit on the end of your nose?”
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Cas says..“ Leave M30 alone, so he has a differing opinion from you, so what. 'BO and zits'? Grow up.”
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emma grace says..“ It's funny, for an article that was supposed to clear things up, it seems to have the complete opposite effect! ”
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Anonymous says..“ Sorry M30, just being sarcastic but your response begs a question.... If the service was so bad why on earth did you go back? ”
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scoteee says..“ I don't no either, she said something about plastic bottles?! ”
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Anonymous says..“ didn't Schofield slate the Horse and Jockey”
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That man says..“ Schofield did slate the Horse and Jockey and then he went back and they'd simplified the menu and he thought it much better. ”
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Anonymous says..“ well which dish was it? if you think the rants are so informative - add your wisdom”
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Jonathan Schofield - editor says..“ No we don't do the second chance thing. That's an old quote.”
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Anonymous says..“ Don't want to labour the point but didnt the horse and jockey get a second chance ?”
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Anonymous says..“ how can anyone criticise Frosts? The meat there is very good, I have been going for twenty five years and my old man for fifty? ”
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Bob the Butcher says..“ @ Anon - it's a matter of opinion, unfortunately my opinion did not meet the approval of Gordo and so was removed. So much for embracing a range of views...”
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scoteee says..“ Gordo, can it not be made so that anonymous ranters are in fact not allowed to remain as such? I dont understand it, make a name up but dont keep being anonymous!”
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Cas says..“ Am I correct that in hindsight, you wish you'd never done this bloody article? Reviews are obviously opinion based, reviews of reviewers just gets damn murky.”
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Bob the Butcher says..“ @ Jonathan - sorry to labour the point but I wasn't in any way abusive. You got it wrong.”
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Gordo says..“ Now Scoteee, be nice ;-)”
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Foodschmood says..“ Am I the only one who values Mancon for everything else it does aside from the food reviews. More of the other stuff please.”
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scoteee says..“ Beano readers? I say old chap, calm yourself i'm having hot flushes!”
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Anonymous says..“ Cas, I thought M30 was a chick?”
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Chick says..“ Interesting point Kevin Donald. Last week's restaurant review in the MEN was written by their dedicated crime reportet no less”
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Cas says..“ Please tell me he used the phrase 'crime against food' or 'the starter was arresting'? Sorry.”
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debsmcc says..“ How about, for the sake of impartiality a pro V punter style review as is used in certain foodie mags? ”
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NoMoreInsideJobs says..“ Is it legitimate to be paid for a bad review by a rival restaurant ? Could be a money spinner ! (joke)”
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M30 says..“ I'm amazed an Edinburgh restaurant uses a Manchester supplier for beef, when some of the finest meat in the world is on their doorstep. ”
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lucky-chris says..“ Sticking my neck out a bit, but I kinda agree with Bob. Butcher or not.”
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Chick says..“ Paul Kitchen uses Frost's? They deliver to Edinburgh? Maybe Frosty could verify this, I am sceptical”
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Kitching says..“ chick- He may work in one but is not named after one!”
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PHIL JONES - MFDF says..“ Editorially removed. Behave yourself Phil. Mark.”
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Cas says..“ Phil, that'll be just like the impartial nominations for MFDF awards then? Ha!”
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Chick says..“ Snapper, noted, I don't do instant though. Personally, I love the food photographers, they're great fun usually and I have no bother feeding them either! ”
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Rob says..“ I wish MANCON would stop referring to things at the Lowry Hotel as being at The Lowry... We've asked so many times.”
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Anonymous says..“ Eh, Rob, why not get them to always refer to The Lowry as The Lowry Centre and The Lowry Hotel can keep to The Lowry? Actuall, why did you both use that name?”
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Anonymous says..“ Scotee - "superb reviews the likes of which shite are found on the fabricated and paid for MEN website." - do you have evidence of this? I'm interested...”
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Anonymous says..“ PS... By evidence, I mean stories about the communication between the editorial and commercial departments (rather than just coincidences in content). ”
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Steve says..“ Bob the butcher...did you know that Gordo and Alan Jackson are family? Blows the conspiracy theory right out the water I'd say.”
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Sally says..“ Blame & Anon there are always two sides to every story. Rob from the Lowry Theatre has repeatedly asked Man Con to refer to the theatre as The Lowry and the hotel as The Lowry Hotel. ”
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James says..“ Are Mancon readers so thick we can't tell the difference between the Centre and the Hotel?”
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Blame says..“ Rob seems to think so. Makes me wonder if he deserves my patronage.”
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Gordo says..“ Pity that Northern, I liked that dish. I had a take out from there last Saturday, it was great apart from the pork and prawn toasties, they were really rank to be honest.”
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NorthernGeezer says..“ It wont put me off going, i'll just stick to me usual pork red curry, though i was tempted by the belly pork.”
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