This’n’That

Jonathan Schofield visits an old and unpretentious Manchester classic

Date Published: 06/11/2007

The way to find This'n'That is to walk down Thomas Street and ask. The modest cafe lies down an alleyway which has pretensions of one day growing into a proper street: hence the name, Soap Street. But it’s not kidding anyone and that’s part of the charm. Despite the accelerated gentrification going on all around, Soap Street still needs a scrub. There’s even a touch of dereliction about the place, which remains, if you know where to look, one of the Northern Quarter’s endearing qualities.

It’s not grubby or semi-derelict, but it has an aura of determined authenticity which makes you fall in love with the place straight away

This'n'That fits these surroundings like a glove. It’s not grubby or semi-derelict, but it has an aura of determined authenticity which makes you fall in love with the place straight away. Without a scintilla of swank, or even wank, it’s got a reputation that places such as Cloud 23 would die for. When we did our £100 curry meal comp a couple of months ago this place was a repeat nomination.

It’s got a long pedigree too. Opened for more than two decades it was one of the first generation of curry cafes established when the Northern Quarter was rag trade rather than boho-vague. The on-going popularity, it's packed every lunch, is according to the owner down to "good value and good food. It's not a secret. Finding it seems the only problem. People have been coming here since we started because we're cheap and the food is spot on."

As if to prove this point, the man on the canteen-style table next to us, leaned over, and said, "I work in the CIS, been coming for fifteen years, best place for classic curries in Manchester, never costs more than a £5 and I always leave stuffed having tasted something really good. Somedays I'll go for something mild, sometimes I want it hot, they've got it all for the price of something ridiculous on ciabatta from Pret a whatever."

I was enjoying this. Just by recording the conversations I was getting a review sorted. I wish people were always so obliging. For the record we enjoyed a lovely, juicy lunch involving a lamb karai, lamb and pumpkin, naan, cabbage, chickpeas, a couple of lassi yoghurt drinks...and change from a tenner. With many curries this could have descended into a mess of crude flavours all bunched up for budget. Not here, each dish stood out on its own, distinctive and proud.

Then of course there’s the famous ‘rice and three’ – three meats – which costs £4.50, or the variant of rice, two meats and one veg, pictured here for the princely sum of £4.

This’n’That gets no marks for design, because there isn't any. The place looks like a formica-clad bus station caff from 1973. But it gets full marks for providing cheap food which tastes excellent. And also for dishing out service with a smile. Seek out This’n’That. Spread the good news. Then get ready to receive the text message: ‘Where did you say it was?’, or if your friend is fifteen, ‘whr did u say it ws?’

Rating:	15/20
Breakdown:	8/10 Food 4/5 Service 3/5 Ambience
Address:	This 'n' That Soap Street Off Thomas Street Northern Quarter Manchester M4 1EX 0161 8324971 Mon-Fri 11.30am-4.30pm; Fri-Sat 11.30am-8pm; Sat 11.30am-4pm

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